The idea that chamomile can lighten or change hair color is not a modern myth—it has roots in centuries of traditional herbal practice. However, understanding whether a "chamomile spray" truly changes hair color requires examining the chemistry of chamomile, the biology of hair, and the nuances of product formulation.
1. The Active Components in Chamomile
Chamomile, particularly Matricaria chamomilla (German chamomile), contains several compounds relevant to hair:
Apigenin: A flavonoid that is pale yellow and has weak acidic properties.
Chrysanthemum flavonoids: Natural pigments.
Bisabolol and Chamazulene: Anti-inflammatory compounds; chamazulene is a deep blue oil (formed during steam distillation) but contributes minimal direct color.
Natural plant acids: Mildly acidic pH (around 5.5–7, depending on preparation).
2. The Mechanism: How Chamomile Interacts with Hair
Hair color is determined by melanin: eumelanin (brown/black) and pheomelanin (red/yellow). To permanently change hair color, you must chemically alter or remove melanin.
Chamomile does not bleach hair in the way hydrogen peroxide does (which oxidizes melanin). Instead, its action is subtle and cumulative, working through two primary mechanisms:
Natural Pigment Deposition: The pale yellow flavonoids (like apigenin) can stain the hair cuticle over time. This is most noticeable on light-colored hair (blonde, light brown, gray, or bleached hair), where it adds golden, honey, or straw-yellow tones.
Sunlight Acceleration (Photobleaching): Chamomile may act as a mild photosensitizer. When applied to hair and exposed to UV light, it can accelerate the natural sun-bleaching process, breaking down melanin slightly faster. This is why chamomile rinses are often recommended for use before sun exposure.
3. The Role of Formulation: "Chamomile Spray" Variables
Not all chamomile sprays are equal. Effectiveness depends on:
Concentration: A spray made from strong, steeped chamomile tea or chamomile extract will have more flavonoids than a diluted product.
Additional Ingredients: Many commercial sprays add lemon juice (citric acid) or vinegar to lower pH, which can gently lift the cuticle, allowing better pigment deposition. Some include hydrogen peroxide in minimal amounts for a lightening boost—this would then be the active agent, not chamomile alone.
Frequency of Use: Daily use over weeks is typically required for visible change.
Hair Porosity: Damaged or porous hair absorbs and holds the chamomile pigments more readily.
4. Scientific Evidence & Practical Observations
Lack of Robust Clinical Studies: There are no major scientific studies proving chamomile dramatically changes hair color. Evidence is anecdotal or based on historical/cosmetic tradition.
Hairdresser Observations: Many stylists note that chamomile can brighten, tone, or enhance natural blondes or gray hair, reducing brassiness and adding shine. It is not capable of darkening hair or significantly altering dark pigment.
Temporary vs. Permanent: The effect is semi-permanent. It washes out over several shampoos since it coats rather than penetrates deeply into the cortex.
5. What a Chamomile Spray Can Realistically Do
Light Blonde Hair: Can add noticeable golden tones, brighten, and enhance natural highlights.
Gray/White Hair: May reduce yellowing, add a gentle gold tone, and increase shine.
Dark Hair: Effect is negligible—maybe a slight sun-kissed highlight in very bright sun, but no dramatic lightening.
Brassiness Reduction: Its cool-yellow tone can counteract orange brassiness in bleached hair when used regularly.
6. Important Considerations & Myths
Myth: "Chamomile will turn my brown hair blonde." False. It cannot lift dark melanin.
Risk of Uneven Application: Spraying inconsistently can lead to patchy color.
Allergies: Those allergic to ragweed or daisies may react.
Drying Effect: Alcohol-based sprays could dry hair; acidic additives may weaken hair over time.
Is It True?
Yes, but with significant caveats. A chamomile spray can gradually alter the tone of light-colored hair through pigment deposition and enhanced sun-lightening. It is not a dye or bleach, but a natural toner and brightener. For brunettes or black hair, the effect is essentially invisible. The key is managing expectations: think "subtle enhancement" rather than "color transformation."
For those seeking to experiment, the most effective method is often a homemade spray of strongly brewed chamomile tea (cooled) combined with a touch of lemon juice, used consistently and followed by sun exposure. However, for definitive, controlled color change, professional dyes and lighteners remain the only reliable option.